Utility/Garden shed - ATTN: juiceweezl

[black2002ls]

Has anyone built their own? I am thinking about a 10x10 or 10x12 on a floating foundation. (solid concrete or pier blocks) Our city requires a permit and inspections on anything 100 sq ft or larger so I am currently at the 9x11 to skirt the requirement and maximize space without a permit, or go bigger so that I have enough room for all of my crap.

If you have built your own, especially on a floating foundation, what kind of spacing did you use for the foundation blocks/piers. I plan to use 2x6 floor joists on 16" centers and the over thinker in me is saying to put blocks at every band board/floor joist intersection and a minimum of one block per joist on the mid line. I am wondering if going to blocks every 32" (every other floor joist), and using hangers on the unsupported joists.

As far as material cost, this can be cut using surplus lumber from jobs at work. I should be able to source most of the 2x4's and 2x6's from there.

Hopefully juiceweezl sees this and gives some input.

[ceyko]

I had an 8x12 in plano, just on blocks. Be aware of property lines and the spacing needed between them as well as how far away from your home it has to be as well. I ended up having to move mine....

...which leads to blocks being fine. The moving company lifted the shed with a bobcat to put it on rollers, it did not flex. The key is to build it sturdy and the blocks will be fine on settled ground.

My current shed is a 12x16 that I just bought from a local company and it's only on blocks too for 4 years and is fine.

[juiceweezl]

Let me check when I get to work. We used to sell a shed kit with hardware and plans to do just what you're describing. I can't remember the size, but it was something like that and could be easily altered. I'll have to dig a bit though as it's been several years. Give me a few hours.

[lowthreeohz]

subscribing, i need to get something in the back yard to replace the metal 10x12 thats aging horribly. somewhere along the way the PO removed the doors, so it's more of a covered barn at this point. I already have a 12x15 gravel pad that would be perfect for a new shed.

[KBScobravert]

Call Tuff Shed. Save yourself the headache.

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[black2002ls]

OP, why not pull a permit and get the size you want?

I'm still weighing my options. I'm going to stake it off and see what the foot print looks like before I decide to do anything

Call Tuff Shed. Save yourself the headache.

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Meh. It isn't much of a headache. I can get material cheap, if not free. Studs, rafters, and possibly even labor at little to no cost. My roofer owes me a few favors so I should be able to get that done at no cost as well.

[8mpg]

Call Tuff Shed. Save yourself the headache.

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expensive

[juiceweezl]

Has anyone built their own? I am thinking about a 10x10 or 10x12 on a floating foundation. (solid concrete or pier blocks) Our city requires a permit and inspections on anything 100 sq ft or larger so I am currently at the 9x11 to skirt the requirement and maximize space without a permit, or go bigger so that I have enough room for all of my crap.

If you have built your own, especially on a floating foundation, what kind of spacing did you use for the foundation blocks/piers. I plan to use 2x6 floor joists on 16" centers and the over thinker in me is saying to put blocks at every band board/floor joist intersection and a minimum of one block per joist on the mid line. I am wondering if going to blocks every 32" (every other floor joist), and using hangers on the unsupported joists.

As far as material cost, this can be cut using surplus lumber from jobs at work. I should be able to source most of the 2x4's and 2x6's from there.

Hopefully juiceweezl sees this and gives some input.

Okay, I found the plans from 20 years ago (yes, I've been at my company that long), but it doesn't have a floor in it. Here's some thoughts.

Span tables in the IRC using 40psf live/10psf dead (common for living areas in this market) are the place to reference. Table R502.3.1(2) is where you want to look. From that table...

16" oc spacing for a 2x6 #2 southern pine will span 9'4". A #3 grade will go 7'1".

Using that, if you're going to build a 10'x10' building, you could use #3 grade and just support each joist in the middle and at each end. I would probably frame the whole thing using hangers (I know a guy...) and then support the rim on each end with 4" cap blocks at the corners and in the middle. Then, I'd put another cap block (or half of one) at the midpoint along each joist. As long as the dirt is compacted underneath, you'll be fine. Deck it with whatever you want and call it good.

[black2002ls]

Okay, I found the plans from 20 years ago (yes, I've been at my company that long), but it doesn't have a floor in it. Here's some thoughts.

Span tables in the IRC using 40psf live/10psf dead (common for living areas in this market) are the place to reference. Table R502.3.1(2) is where you want to look. From that table...

16" oc spacing for a 2x6 #2 southern pine will span 9'4". I #3 grade will go 7'1".

Using that, if you're going to build a 10'x10' building, you could use #3 grade and just support each joist in the middle and at each end. I would probably frame the whole thing using hangers (I know a guy...) and then support the rim on each end with 4" cap blocks at the corners and in the middle. Then, I'd put another cap block (or half of one) at the midpoint along each joist. As long as the dirt is compacted underneath, you'll be fine. Deck it with whatever you want and call it good.

I found that span table last night. Another reason I am leaning 8x12. #2 PT 2x6 would span the 8' with no issue.

Soil compaction will be my issue. My yard has a tendency to get fairly wet, I have made HUGE improvements in thr drainage.

I have some road base left from my paver patio, i may have enough to cover that area. If not I may just have to excavate at each block and fill/compact.

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[juiceweezl]

I found that span table last night. Another reason I am leaning 8x12. #2 PT 2x6 would span the 8' with no issue.

Soil compaction will be my issue. My yard has a tendency to get fairly wet, I have made HUGE improvements in thr drainage.

I have some road base left from my paver patio, i may have enough to cover that area. If not I may just have to excavate at each block and fill/compact.

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You could possibly use deck blocks (the precast blocks). You could dig a bit, compacted it and backfill around them, then drop the floor in it.

[black2002ls]

You could possibly use deck blocks (the precast blocks). You could dig a bit, compacted it and backfill around them, then drop the floor in it.

I've seen a lot of people do that. If it is dry enough this weekend, I'm going to stake it off and get an idea of how un-level the ground. I would prefer to use cap blocks due to cost.

[black2002ls]

I've pretty much decided on 8x12. I don't have to deal with the city, I just have to watch my set back. Looks like I'm able to get all of the framing material from work. All I will be out cost wise is the foundation material, roof, and siding. My roofer is going to roof it for $200, so I think I'm going to be able to get out for about $400.

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[juiceweezl]

Sweet! Cap blocks are cheap too. Nice job putting the project together to be well built but on the cost effective side.

[black2002ls]

Well, I had planned to frame out and level the foundation this weekend. Unfortunately, I have to borrow a truck to puick up anything more than a couple of 2x4's. I had a family friend that was going to help yesterday, though they decided to ignore our messages until about 8PM, so all I managed to get done was pick up the cap blocks and get them moved to the back yard. Yay for reliable friends....

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[black2002ls]

I met up with a friend at Home Depot after work and picked up all of the pressure treated 2x6. I got the frame of the foundation and 3 joists screwed in before I ran out of day light.

I am now wondering if I should double the rim joist. I am thinking I will have a good bit of the weight on shelves on the outside walls. Doubling the rim joist will help transfer more of that weight down to the blocks, as well as give me more lumber to nail the bottom plate to, instead of relying on nails through the subfloor or tring to hit the 1.5" width of a single rim joist, on the outside of the bottom plate. Thoughts?

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