Utility/Garden shed - ATTN: juiceweezl

[black2002ls]

Thanks. I didn't realize how big it was going to be (tall) until the walls were up. The roof uwill add ~2.5' in height making it about 12' from grade to peak.

It will allow much more storage than an entry level tuff shed. It looks like they are framed at a 7'? Plate height. I am at 8' and should have some loft space

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[blandnuts]

Looks good. I'm jealous.

I would love to get some of my kid's shit out of the garage.

[Mike K]

Looking forward to the progress of this build. Do you have a blueprint of what you are building or are you just making it as you go? I'd like to build a 10'x12' greenhouse/shed next to my garden. Just wondering if there is somewhere I can go online where I can find some kind of build plans.

[black2002ls]

Looking forward to the progress of this build. Do you have a blueprint of what you are building or are you just making it as you go? I'd like to build a 10'x12' greenhouse/shed next to my garden. Just wondering if there is somewhere I can go online where I can find some kind of build plans.

Pretty much just winging it! Next time I am around a desktop I will see if I can find a link to the 8x12 plans I intended to use. You can just expand it for 10x12.

When I got home tonight I broke out the sawsall and cut the ridge board down. Trimmed a couple of inches off of the supports and hoisted it all back up. Tacked one side downadjusted the other side just a bit, and everything worked out. I had to open my birdsmouth cuts up a little bit and this is what i ended up with.



I am short 4 2x6's for the end rafters. Get those up, the gable extensions, and then I can deck it and get the roof on it.

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[black2002ls]

Here is a link to the plan that I printed when I began construction. I ended up not using it however. I wanted studs 16" on center and as mentioned previously, I failed to cut the 3" off of the floor joists to make it a true 8x12, which made the rafter diagram useless to me.

http://www.mycadsite.com/tutorials/level_2/links/shed-plans.pdf

I did some looking around last night, and checked out a couple of our gable extensions here at work and I am going to forego the 2x6 end rafters. I need to frame a gable wall so that I have something to attach the OSB to. So, I will frame a 2x4 gable wall that is about 3.5" short which will support a 2x4 gable extension. The extension will only be 6" to match the rest of the overhang, giving me a total of ~30" from rafter to the end of the extension.

I had originally planned to extend the rafters far enough to use perforated soffit and add a couple of roof vents on the back side for ventilation (more on that in a minute). Once I figured total cost of cornice material (hardie siding) I decided that a 6" overhang would work, I have a bunch of soffit vents stock piled, from a sub division we closed about 8 months ago, which will take the place of the soffit perforations and reduce the overall cost of materials. I am trying to plan to have to purchase all of the siding material, mainly because it is difficult to find someone to transport 12' siding. It can't be hauled in a truck due to the ease with which it breaks when flexed.

The reasoning behind the venting is that, again, I am building this like I would a new home. I used sill plate foam on the bottom plate, the bottom plate will be foamed to the floor using insect inhibiting expanding foam. I will do the same for other penetrations. Trying to minimize the amount of pest and moisture intrusion, thus the need for some venting!

My concerns at this point:

Is one window enough? I fell like with a ~4' double door and the 32"x36" window, I should have enough light coming in. I didn't want to use up wall space with a window on the ends or the back side.

Is it going to rain tomorrow? The way that I built the floor could be troublesome if it rains. The 2x 3.5mil poly under the plywood will give me trouble if it rains before it is completely dried in. There will be no where for the water to go and my floor will be sitting in the water that pools underneath and can't drain through the plastic, forcing me to compromise my moisture barrier.

Hopefully I can get my gable ends framed up tonight, I have a friend who does concrete work in Forney and has said that he will haul my remaining OSB and decking to Greenville for me one night this week. That should line me out to get the roof put on it this weekend. I am a little on the fence about paying my roofer to do it. I figure I should be able to do it for ~$100-125 in materials. It should take 1 roll of felt paper and 3 bundles of shingles. Do I want to take the time to do it, or is it worth the additional $75-100 to have it done in about 2 hours and not have to worry about it. Shingle lines will be straight, I won't have to load and unload the material, etc.

[Mach1]

nice!

[ceyko]

Is one window enough?

I've always had a minimum of 2 windows - plus the door being open which is enough.

In a situation where I had fence blocking light on 2 sides, I had 3 windows. I'd do 2 minimum for ventilation along with whatever other ventilation you do.

Part of the problem is you're never 100% sure how things are going to get packed/stacked inside. So you may actually end up blocking a window too. However, if you don't want to or feel that the 1 w/door will be enough light - just be sure to add more ventilation than you think you need. The first time you have an oops fuel spill or put some other potent stuff in there you'll be glad you did.

I'm rambling about your windows because looking at the design a little more. ....and the door placement I'm guessing the left, back and right will get packed tight and door/window will be somewhat open or used as an isle.

Also plan a ramp too for the door, it'll help.

[black2002ls]

I've always had a minimum of 2 windows - plus the door being open which is enough.

In a situation where I had fence blocking light on 2 sides, I had 3 windows. I'd do 2 minimum for ventilation along with whatever other ventilation you do.

Part of the problem is you're never 100% sure how things are going to get packed/stacked inside. So you may actually end up blocking a window too. However, if you don't want to or feel that the 1 w/door will be enough light - just be sure to add more ventilation than you think you need. The first time you have an oops fuel spill or put some other potent stuff in there you'll be glad you did.

I'm rambling about your windows because looking at the design a little more. ....and the door placement I'm guessing the left, back and right will get packed tight and door/window will be somewhat open or used as an isle.

Also plan a ramp too for the door, it'll help.

Good input! Once the roof is on it, I will have a feel for the amount of light it gets. I can always add in a window. Nothing a sawsall and some new headers won't cure!

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[black2002ls]

Well, with a chance of rain tonight and tomorrow, not sure how much will get completed tonight. I plan to wrap it with plastic to minimize the amount of water that gets inside and runs through the floor.

[black2002ls]

I got started on a gable wall yesterday. Trying to get as much done before the rain as possible. Unfortunately, I screwed it up, I set it too high and the gable extensions were sitting higher than the joists, so, out came the sawsall. I am going to go about this differently when I get the chance to get back to it. I'm going to nail up the gable extensions first, then set the gable wall. I should be able to set the top and bottom 2x4's for the gable extension, nailed to the rafter and to the top plate and ridge beam support, set the fascia 2x4, then the top of the gable wall, and fill it out from there.

The most difficult part at this stage is to keep everything level and square by myself!

[black2002ls]

I was able to get the west gable wall done last night. I still need to block the top for the 2x4 for the fascia board, I will take care of that when I put the 2x4 up. I should be able to knock out the ease gable wall and soffit tonight and be ready to put up soffit 2x4 tomorrow and then decking.



The jury is still out on whether I am going to roof it myself or pay my roofer. At this point, the advantages of doing it myself are time and $$$. I won't have it ready until next weekend for him to do it (he does our production homes so he is usually only available for side jobs Sat/Sun). I would like it dried in sooner than later so we can start the declutter and organization! I would also save $75-$100. Cons to doing it myself are time and quality. It would take me several days up there laying shingles. There is a good chance my shingle lines are going to look like something that may resemble a sine wave...

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[chronical]

Why would it take several days ?

[black2002ls]

Why would it take several days ?

If I hit it on a weekend, I could knock it out in a day, If I start during the week, I usually don't get home until about 6:30, so I only have that last little bit of day light right now to get home, get materials out, work, and clean up! That combined with me being a bit of a perfectionist and taking more time than I should trying to make sure that the rows are straight and the lines between the tabs are straight going up the roof and the don't "walk"

[black2002ls]

Well, both gable walls are done, as well as the 2x4 soffit board. I screwed something up when I ran the soffit board and the 2x4 soffit doesn't come together just right. Eff it, nothing a sawsall wont fix. My roof may look a bit unlevel in a couple of places when all is said and done, but I'm OK with that.

Now, I've got to manage to get the damn thing decked some how. My narrow ass doesn't have enough oomph to get 4x8 sheets of decking up there

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[black2002ls]

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