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  • #31
    How about Carrier? We install Trane in our new construction. I'm not necessary loyal to the brand though! (My contractor doesn't service my area)
    Originally posted by Leah
    Best balls I've had in my mouth in a while.

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    • #32
      Originally posted by black2002ls View Post
      I need to look at the compressor and see, if there are even any markings left. It was built in 96. Ranch style home with a basic hip style roof. I've got 2 turbines for ventilation, and it looks like a decent amount of soffit vents, though i haven't verified if they are all unblocked. Windows are double pane aluminum frames. I did what I could to address air leakage when we remodeled. It co sisted mostly of polycel insulation around the exterior doors. I am working on painting the exterior so all of the windows are getting re caulked while I am at it. Our roof is a dark roof as well. So 2.5 is probably going to cover it.

      I have a few more energy upgrades I plan to do. The living room has a vaulted ceiling and it needs hot walled in the attic
      Sonolastic NP1 when you caulk the exterior.

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      • #33
        Originally posted by 8mpg View Post
        Sonolastic NP1 when you caulk the exterior.
        Windows or everything?
        Originally posted by Leah
        Best balls I've had in my mouth in a while.

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        • #34
          Originally posted by black2002ls View Post
          Windows or everything?
          I used it on windows and doors.

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          • #35
            Model number is a Lennox HS18-311-7P a quick google says it is a 2.5 ton unit. Date on the compressor and furnace say 1986 or 1987.

            We were told our house was built in 1996, however, the HVAC system (compressor and furnace) and the hot water heater all have service dates in 86/86. Is there any way to determine the actual year of construction?
            Originally posted by Leah
            Best balls I've had in my mouth in a while.

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            • #36
              Originally posted by black2002ls View Post
              Model number is a Lennox HS18-311-7P a quick google says it is a 2.5 ton unit. Date on the compressor and furnace say 1986 or 1987.

              We were told our house was built in 1996, however, the HVAC system (compressor and furnace) and the hot water heater all have service dates in 86/86. Is there any way to determine the actual year of construction?
              usually the tax records have that info. I'm in denton county and can look it up by address on their website. try googling the county tax record website you live in and see if you can find it.

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              • #37
                I have looked it up a few times. Though I didn't think to check the property value through the recorded years.
                Originally posted by Leah
                Best balls I've had in my mouth in a while.

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by kpc01 View Post
                  usually the tax records have that info. I'm in denton county and can look it up by address on their website. try googling the county tax record website you live in and see if you can find it.
                  Total derail, but i just checked the local tax district website. It only shows values for the past 7 years. First year on file for information is 1987
                  Originally posted by Leah
                  Best balls I've had in my mouth in a while.

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by black2002ls View Post
                    Total derail, but i just checked the local tax district website. It only shows values for the past 7 years. First year on file for information is 1987
                    The look of the house says 80s from the pictures you have posted. My parents old house was build in the very late 70s and looked the exact same.

                    If you decide to replace the unit, you can save some good money going from what is probably a 9 seer to 15-16 each month. Up front costs suck but you will win in the long run. Dont forget though, that was an r12 system so you will need to decide whether or not to upgrade everything to r134.

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                    • #40
                      Speaking of home a/c, is there anyone out there that can be trusted to quote the proper system and install it properly without just going through the motions and throwing in a system in that they're trying to move units on? People who actually care and take pride in what they do?

                      My shit is old and still keeps on, but I dread the day I have to replace it all. Cost is one thing, but the right person is what scares me.

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                      • #41
                        Originally posted by 8mpg View Post
                        The look of the house says 80s from the pictures you have posted. My parents old house was build in the very late 70s and looked the exact same.

                        If you decide to replace the unit, you can save some good money going from what is probably a 9 seer to 15-16 each month. Up front costs suck but you will win in the long run. Dont forget though, that was an r12 system so you will need to decide whether or not to upgrade everything to r134.
                        No signs of it failing, so it will be voluntary replacement. I will replace everything right down to the ductwork. I am sure a new plenum and a better duct system will do wonders. Our master bedroom is last in the line and flow is seriously lacking
                        Originally posted by Leah
                        Best balls I've had in my mouth in a while.

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Not sure if you want to spend the money or if you can find a company to follow the plans, but I would look into a ManualJ and Manual D which are system design and duct design. They wont do any good if you cant find a company to follow it.

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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by 8mpg View Post
                            Not sure if you want to spend the money or if you can find a company to follow the plans, but I would look into a ManualJ and Manual D which are system design and duct design. They wont do any good if you cant find a company to follow it.
                            I have read about that. I ran through a Manual J calculator the other night, though it was a quick lets see what this is all about, run through, so it was a bit greek to me. I am not afraid to dig in and do the duct work myself, replacing the units, I would imagine that would need to be done by a licensed contractor for the warranty.

                            I may end up contacting my HVAC company and see if he would be willing to design a system for me, and I can find someone local to install.
                            Originally posted by Leah
                            Best balls I've had in my mouth in a while.

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                            • #44
                              Get a Manual J. Don't let them do a "run of thumb".

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                              • #45
                                Originally posted by black2002ls View Post
                                I have read about that. I ran through a Manual J calculator the other night, though it was a quick lets see what this is all about, run through, so it was a bit greek to me. I am not afraid to dig in and do the duct work myself, replacing the units, I would imagine that would need to be done by a licensed contractor for the warranty.

                                I may end up contacting my HVAC company and see if he would be willing to design a system for me, and I can find someone local to install.
                                Im sure you will need a 5 ton a/c if you go by their calculations. This is one of those things that I believe you should get an outside company to do. A house under 2000sqft should be $150 from the company I used for the manual J and D.

                                Upfront Manual J Pricing for 10 & 14-Day Turnaround. Residential HVAC Design Wrightsoft Right-J & Right-D reports. Manual J $50 discount Coupon - Save $50 Today!


                                It was $75 for 1 hour on manual J..looks like it went up a bit. Like I said...only works if the installer follows the design.

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