T5 high bay wiring. Elec. gurus!

[sosoe]

So, I'm not very good at choosing the correct products to tackle a job. I have purchased 5 T5 H.O 6bulb light fixtures for my shop. I have no idea what circuit breaker to buy and also gauge in wiring. The guy at Home Depot told me to buy 12/2 gauge wiring and a 20amp circuit breaker. I looked at my circuit breaker box and the majority of the breakers are 30-40amps and only have one 20amp circuit breaker. Is that too thin of a gauge to use and also not enough amps in the that circuit breaker for the lights? Below are pictures of what I currently have.

Current light specs for the fixtures



Wiring that I have


Circuit breaker



And light fixture

[kpc01]

that should be plenty, just make sure you got the right breaker for your brand box, they are all different. I figure you could run a few of the high bays of the 20a if you decided to add a few more or an outlet.


edit: I'm not an electrician but wired my shop/garage/shed etc and my electrician friend told me I was good so I'm going by that....Mines been fine for 3+ years so far

[Craizie]

I know just enough about electrical work to know I need to pay someone to do it. That shit hurts when you fuck up.

[95DRGT]

I know just enough about electrical work to know I need to pay someone to do it. That shit hurts when you fuck up.

Amen- 'pay them for what they do' is my saying when I'm over my head or have more money than time.

[8mpg]

overkill...

You only really need 14/2 wire on a 15amp breaker but honestly the price difference on 12/2 vs 14/2 isnt much.

max watts = amps x volts
1800 watts = 15 amps x 120 volts

Being that it is a lighting circuit that would run constant, it would be safer to reduce it by 20-25%...so 1440 watts for a 14/2 wire.

If those t5 bulbs are 35 watts each x 6 bulbs per fixture x 5 fixtures, thats 1050 watts. On a 20amp circuit, you can run 1920 safetly (thats at 80% capacity).

[RuStYpNuS]

T5 lamps are 54 Watts each I'm pretty sure. The lamp will say something along the lines of F54t5. There is nothing wrong with using what you have already purchased especially if you plan on expanding off the circuit later on down the road. But like stated by 8mpg it is overkill for one fixture. Enjoy that light setup though. It'll be bright enough for whatever you want. Next time your in Home Depot look up at their lights.......same shit lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

[RuStYpNuS]

I would also suggest installing a switch to turn them on and off vs just the breaker. At 54w x 6, that energy expense will add up over time and breakers aren't designed to be used as a switch

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

[Matt]

I would also suggest installing a switch to turn them on and off vs just the breaker. At 54w x 6, that energy expense will add up over time and breakers aren't designed to be used as a switch

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

They have motion sensors and shut off within 10 minutes of not being under them. We put 2 up in my shop this weekend and when I'm not on the other side of the shop, it doesn't come on unless I go under the CNC Mill area.

No switch needed

[RuStYpNuS]

Ahhhh i didn't even notice that......those fuckers are bright huh? Lol I retro'd the McKesson medical storage in Lancaster or duncanville (somewhere in the ghetto over there) with those fixtures throughout the entire warehouse

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

[orphan Shelby]

Ahhhh i didn't even notice that......those fuckers are bright huh? Lol I retro'd the McKesson medical storage in Lancaster or duncanville (somewhere in the ghetto over there) with those fixtures throughout the entire warehouse

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

Had to have been Lancaster. Dville is all upper class

[RuStYpNuS]

Lmao

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

[Matt]

Ahhhh i didn't even notice that......those fuckers are bright huh? Lol I retro'd the McKesson medical storage in Lancaster or duncanville (somewhere in the ghetto over there) with those fixtures throughout the entire warehouse

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

damn right they are bright as fuck. I'm glad I have 16ft ceilings or else i would go blind if they were any lower

[TeeShock]

Is your panel 208 or 480V?


54W Lamp x 6 = 324 per fixture.
1620 total watts.

Assuming since it's new with an occ sensor & electronic ballast w/ high power factor. If you add any more lamps to a 208V system, that will put it over the 16A limit (NEC). But since you mentioned there is diversity within the circuit given the occ sensor, it wont blow the breaker as long as all lamps are not operating simultaneously. Or if you really need more circuit capacity for fixtures, start removing lamps from the original 5 fixtures. Or upsize your breaker and match existing KAIC rating. If it's 277v you're golden for days.

1620W / (120V x 0.95PF) = 14.21A (16A MAX for a 20A breaker)
1620W / (277V x 0.95PF) = 4.52A

[TeeShock]

overkill...

You only really need 14/2 wire on a 15amp breaker but honestly the price difference on 12/2 vs 14/2 isnt much.

max watts = amps x volts
1800 watts = 15 amps x 120 volts

Being that it is a lighting circuit that would run constant, it would be safer to reduce it by 20-25%...so 1440 watts for a 14/2 wire.

If those t5 bulbs are 35 watts each x 6 bulbs per fixture x 5 fixtures, thats 1050 watts. On a 20amp circuit, you can run 1920 safetly (thats at 80% capacity).

Watts do not equal volt-amps

[RuStYpNuS]

8mpgs formula is correct.
Watts = Volts x Amps


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk