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How expensive is this going to be? (Foundation)

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  • #16
    Originally posted by mustang_revival View Post
    Great info in this thread! Keep them coming.

    I'm in the same boat(foundation issues), but my neighbor has offered to buy my house as is.

    So I'm deciding if I should sell as is or go through getting the foundation fixed and trying to get top dollar.
    Get a foundation bid first, then weigh your options!
    Originally posted by Leah
    Best balls I've had in my mouth in a while.

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    • #17
      I am hoping mine isn't so bad that watering won't bring it back. Started noticing the cracks about a month ago. I am watering 60-90 min/night
      Originally posted by Leah
      Best balls I've had in my mouth in a while.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by LS1Goat View Post
        You certainly have some problems that will only get worse due to this persistent drought. The next step will be plumbing problems.....
        This kinda brings up a good question. Since our drought/rainfall conditions probably aren't going to improve year after year, is there not a better foundation design that can withstand this type of earth movement? Would a thicker foundation help? More post tensions or rebar?

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        • #19
          Originally posted by mustang_revival View Post
          Great info in this thread! Keep them coming.

          I'm in the same boat(foundation issues), but my neighbor has offered to buy my house as is.

          So I'm deciding if I should sell as is or go through getting the foundation fixed and trying to get top dollar.
          Selling as-is with a foundation problem usually limits you to a cash only transaction. A lender will not fund if there are known foundation issues. The title company will require a signed off Structural Engineering report in order for it to fund at close.

          If you list the house and the buyer's inspector cites foundation issues, you'll likely be forced to repair the foundation in order to close on any conventional loan.
          Last edited by LS1Goat; 09-26-2014, 03:52 PM.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by GeorgeG. View Post
            This kinda brings up a good question. Since our drought/rainfall conditions probably aren't going to improve year after year, is there not a better foundation design that can withstand this type of earth movement? Would a thicker foundation help? More post tensions or rebar?
            It's actually very thick (e.g, sometimes over 3 ft. around the perimeter.) The problem is simply the reactive nature of the soil in North Texas. A good builder will usually make the best effort to lay a solid foundation. Some will even go as far as take soil samples to help them determine the amount of tension they pull on the rebar before cutting the cable ends. There is really not much you can do during prolonged dry spells, except water adhere to a watering plan. And just cross your fingers.

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            • #21
              I just had (15) piers done for $4800 from MBR. http://www.mbrgfr.com/

              I'm selling my house and they are allowing me to pay them with the proceeds from the sale of my home. I paid a deposit and will pay the balance at close.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by LS1Goat View Post
                It's actually very thick (e.g, sometimes over 3 ft. around the perimeter.) The problem is simply the reactive nature of the soil in North Texas. A good builder will usually make the best effort to lay a solid foundation. Some will even go as far as take soil samples to help them determine the amount of tension they pull on the rebar before cutting the cable ends. There is really not much you can do during prolonged dry spells, except water adhere to a watering plan. And just cross your fingers.
                Around the perimeter, yes. But the thinnest parts of the "waffle" (not sure what it's called) is about 4 inches, right?

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                • #23
                  Yeah, typically 4"-6" with bracing.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by GeorgeG. View Post
                    Around the perimeter, yes. But the thinnest parts of the "waffle" (not sure what it's called) is about 4 inches, right?
                    Correct. One thing to keep in mind, there are two kinds of concrete. Cracked, and going to crack. The cables in a post tension slab don't prevent the slab from cracking, they hold it together after it cracks.

                    Beam depth is usually dictated by soil samplea and engineer preference. I think ours are 36-48".

                    We only build in subdivisions where they have done soil samples. We have strict requirements regarding PVR, amount of fill used, and always pier lots that need it per the amount of fill or soil requirements.
                    Originally posted by Leah
                    Best balls I've had in my mouth in a while.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      These people are DIRT cheap. They've leveled a house I just sold, and two others. They are VERY hard to get a hold of, but they're always the cheapest and do a great job.

                      Last house they did for me, installed 9 piers, removed wooden shims, and replaced them all with metal and leveled the whole house for 3000.

                      972-286-6595

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