Tiling upstairs bathroom...advice needed

[zachary]

For some reason we just can not get enough of a beating...and decided to rip out our upstairs bathroom and replace it as well before carpet goes in upstairs.
If you have noticed..
Here is our overall house progress thread, inside this contains our staircase remodel, half bath remodel, and removal of all popcorn ceilings and replace with knockdown!
http://www.dfwmustangs.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=21529

This thread is our master bath downstairs remodel from start to finish...need finished pictures still too though!
http://www.dfwmustangs.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=51548


Well now we have done this...


Would love a break! maybe after this one!

Just want to run my tile idea by some "pros" on here before I start. The floor is not perfectly level..so i am thinking y starting with a slight bit of self leveling filler for the bad spots!

then flex bond thin set
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Bu...FB50/100122448

then some sort of flex underlayment(not sure of the name the rubber type stuff...home depot has it)

then more flexbond then the tile

SO option A is
from the bottom up

self level the floor, the areas that need it
flexbond
underlayment
flexbond
tile

Or would it just be easier to do option B

Option B
1/2 cement board across whole floor
flexbond
tile


Anyone done either or or have other advise?

[black2002ls]

Our installers use a flexible mat under our upstairs tile installs. Keep in mind, you are laying tile on a somewhat flexible surface. I wouldn't use cement board on the floor. It will lead to more cracking issues. The mat will allow it to "float" a little more

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[8mpg]

I would use something like Kerdi Ditra.. There are otehr cheaper brands out there as well. Being on a wood floor, there may be movement.

[HECDOGGIE]

If you are installing tile on the 2nd floor you have to use hardi-backer or a cement backer board. On the walls you would also use backerboard in wet areas. I would use red-guard to seal cracks in wet areas and the floor.

[zachary]

well new sliding window has been installed and tub is mounted. Cement board sheet rock then tiling to go!

I think plan is to do like a freestanding tub wrap around shower curtain and leave end of tub open or make shelving there. Also will be a rain shower from top of ceiling i believe!

[zachary]

moving forward...

[onjacks]

I hope you plan to fiber tape and redguard the hardi before tile. You should have some thick mil plastic behind the hardi if not.

[petyweestraw]

Yeah you're definitely gonna need a good moisture barrier if not. Wow the good old days when I used to do this for a living.

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[zachary]

[zachary]

Time to cement board the floor then start tilling this week!

[HECDOGGIE]

Dont forget your moisture barrier, i.e. REDGUARD

Use it where you have joints, and corners where standing water can sit. I am anal, i would also cover my entire FLOOR and about 6" up the wall , also where the hardi meets the tub ...

[Tyrone Biggums]

I hope you plan to fiber tape and redguard the hardi before tile. You should have some thick mil plastic behind the hardi if not.

Dont forget your moisture barrier, i.e. REDGUARD

Use it where you have joints, and corners where standing water can sit. I am anal, i would also cover my entire FLOOR and about 6" up the wall , also where the hardi meets the tub ...

These. You've gone this far, don't skip the moisture barrier. Also, read up on the Redgard before buying your thinset. It requires a modified thinset over it. You'll need about three gallons to do that size area. Save some money and just buy the larger bucket. Use a 3/4" nap roller to apply it. It will take several coats. You've achieved the approximate proper thickness when you can no longer read the writing on the cement board.

[03mustangdude]

I've tried redguard but I like aquadefence more imo it looks stronger? idk how to explain it used redguard several times first time using aquadefence

[85whtgt]

These. You've gone this far, don't skip the moisture barrier. Also, read up on the Redgard before buying your thinset. It requires a modified thinset over it. You'll need about three gallons to do that size area. Save some money and just buy the larger bucket. Use a 3/4" nap roller to apply it. It will take several coats. You've achieved the approximate proper thickness when you can no longer read the writing on the cement board.

Solid advice, though there is no real reason to use unmodified thin set unless working with kerdi or ditra.

[85whtgt]

I've tried redguard but I like aquadefence more imo it looks stronger? idk how to explain it used redguard several times first time using aquadefence

Aquadefence is just an equivalent product from a competing company, I believe both are acrylic based products with limited flexibility/crack iso properties. Though they are more than sufficient for a simple residential install.