Building Code Question For Garage Outlet Wiring

[BLK306]

I was wanting to add an outlet in my garage since I currently only have 1. However, the wall I want to put the plug on is an exterior wall. Therefore, the header which I would need to drill the hole in to drop the wire is way back in where the pitch of the roof starts to really squeeze down. Not to mention I'm not sure I could even stand the drill with bit up in the space there.

So I was wondering if anyone knew if I would still be within code if I ran some conduit on the outside of the drywall? I was thinking I could drop it from the ceiling right next to the wall and installed an outlet box on the outside of the drywall or maybe run bend in the conduit so that I could put the wire back in the wall at the plug. A little ghetto I know. I would much rather keep it all in the wall but I don't want to have to fight my ass off up there trying to find a way to drill the dam hole either.

[mstng86]

I don't know about code, but if you just have plain unfinished drywall, you could cut out a square at the top of the drywall and drill UP through the header. Then just repair th drywall. It is just a garage after all.
The header is usually pretty thick and it requires a pretty long bit

[BLK306]

I don't know about code, but if you just have plain unfinished drywall, you could cut out a square at the top of the drywall and drill UP through the header. Then just repair th drywall. It is just a garage after all.
The header is usually pretty thick and it requires a pretty long bit

Yeah I remember that at my last house when I did this. I need bit that was like 12" long. That's why I figured there was no real way I could drill it from up top. I may try what you said though.

You know I really don't understand why the build garages with only 1 dam outlet in the first place. I guess its just another way for builders to save some cash.

[mstng86]

I'm in the same boat. I have one outlet on the ceiling for the door opener and one on my outside wall. I need probably two more.

[black2002ls]

Header or top plate?

As for garage outlets, if you are looking to add an outlet, if it isn't already, I would upgrade/add a 20A circuit for garage stuff. We have had a few homeowners mention that they will frequently blow the breaker on their 15A circuits in the garage

[BLK306]

Header or top plate?

As for garage outlets, if you are looking to add an outlet, if it isn't already, I would upgrade/add a 20A circuit for garage stuff. We have had a few homeowners mention that they will frequently blow the breaker on their 15A circuits in the garage

Ok I have to be honest. I don't really know the difference between a header and top plate. It is whatever runs along the top of the studs on an exterior wall.

[ceyko]

I don't know code either, but I'm a big fan of conduit wherever you can put it.

[black2002ls]

Headers are above windows, doors, and large openings. The biggest difference is the thickness. You are probably looking at ~4" to drill through. The hole doesn't have to be straight, fepending on the angle of the drill, you will probably be ok.

[8mpg]

You could try a flex bit...

How in the hell is 20a not code for outlets. 15a outlets shouldnt even be allowed. The price difference on wire is next to nothing.. something like $20 per 250' of wire.

[FastFox]

The top plate over studs is usually 2 2x4's, so that would be 3 1/2" thick. You should be able to pull Romex through a 1/2" hole.

[BLK306]

Thanks guys. Ill squeeze my ass up there and see what I can do. I may get luck. If not then Ill look in to some other options.

[fordracing19]

How in the hell is 20a not code for outlets. 15a outlets shouldnt even be allowed. The price difference on wire is next to nothing.. something like $20 per 250' of wire.

Cheap builders that just care about the bottom line.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

[STANGGT40]

That's within code. You'll need 1 - 10' stick of 3/4" emt (unless you want to use PVC), 1 - 3/4" emt connector (connects emt to box), 1 - 4" square metal box, 1 - ground stinger (short green wire with green screw attached), 1 - "raised industrial cover" that matches what configuration you want to install (1 duplex, quad, etc), 1 - 3/4" plastic bushing (slides on the end of the conduit, where the wire enters, 2 - 3/4" "mineralac" straps (these will stand the conduit off of the wall), about 1/2", so you don't have to bend a box offset. Then you'll just need screws to attach the box and straps (EZ Anchors, etc)...it's best to screw everything into a stud, your receptacle(s), your cable (12/2 NM-B), some wire nuts, and a 20/1 breaker that matches your panel. Just pull the cable across your attic, drop into the panel, and down through the conduit, at the receptacle. If it's a sub panel, keep the ground and neutral on their respective ground/neutral bars. If it's your main panel (most likely), the ground (bare) and neutral (white) will attach to the same bar and the black wire will attach to the breaker. At the receptacle box, you'll screw the ground stinger into the box and connect that to the bare ground wire (which will also connect to the ground screw of the receptacle)...the white wire will connect to the screw on the side of the receptacle with the taller/longer plug slot and the black wire will connect on the opposite side (side with the shorter plug slot)...nothing to it.

[STANGGT40]

Cheap builders that just care about the bottom line.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

Yep, there's a big difference in price, in the entire house. 12/2 is about $80 more per 1k feet, than 14/2...and 12/3 is about $150 more per 1k feet, than 14/3...also, the 15 amp devices are much cheaper, which is usually the biggest issue...those cheap 15a devices are junk. The good 15/20 amp devices are usually about $3-$4 each (depending on style) and the cheap 15a resi devices are $.50 each or less.