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  • Sprinkler system valve question

    I found a couple of my sprinkler heads leaking on a certain zone, so I think this means the electronic valve is leaking that controls the zone. I used the manual shut off valve for the zone to cut it off and this stopped the leak. My question is about the seal or diaphragm located in the valve itself. If the valve diaphragm was damaged, wouldn't the manual shut off not completely stop the leak? Is it possible that the actual electronic valve itself is not completely coming down, which is causing a bit of water to pass it?

    I went to Lowe's today to look at parts and the entire valve assemblies are less than $20, so I might just go this route. Is it as simple as getting one with the same pipe diameter or do I need to get one that's by the same brand as my sprinkler system? I wasn't sure if they're all wired the same way or if different brands operate differently.

  • #2
    You're right, not worth trying to replace the parts. Here is a video...It's really easy. Hardest part is if the manifold was built "tight" and not much room between the valves. You just gotta work with it. Remove extra dirt around the manifold to make it easier to move and twist when you cement the new one in.
    Its all low voltage stuff, but shut the power off anyway. Be sure to use the water proof caps on the wiring connections...
    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jb5ccM1iiHY[/ame]

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    • #3
      So how do you go about locating the valve? I know the general area where all of mine are. I've clicked the solenoid several times but my neighborhood has too much ambient noise to hear it.

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      • #4
        All the valves work basically the same, doesn't matter about brand. I replaced all of mine with either Toro, Orbit or RainBird. I would suggest replacing one with a jar top, so you can simply unscrew the top for maintenance. Below is an example of the type I'm talking about:

        [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-JTV100-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B000CSYL4Q/ref=sr_1_3?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1395614788&sr=1-3&keywords=jar+top+sprinkler+valve+rain+bird"]Rain Bird Jar Top[/ame]
        Whippled '06 by Gearheads - 474rwhp 450rwtq @ 10psi and a few other Borla/Steeda/BMR/CHE/Tokico mods...

        Gearheads Dyno Video

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        • #5
          Mine leaked before and after I dug out the entire flower bed to get to the valves, it fixed itself. I suspect some dirt or sand in the waterline got stuck in the valve and it eventually worked itself out. The same thing happened to a friend of mine. So... before you buy a new system, set your sprinklers to ON and work the shut off valve on and off a few times. Those few minutes might save you a lot of time and effort.
          Last edited by Leah; Yesterday at 10:18 PM.

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          • #6
            Turn the water back on to the valves. Find your valve box and turn each individual solenoid on top of the valve a 1/4 turn counter clockwise. This will manually activate the valve. When you isolate the valve that turns on the heads that are leaking, then that is your bad valve. You can get a replacement diaphragm and solenoid from Lowes/Home Depot for about $15.00. Just make note of what brand your valve is and get the appropriate kit.

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            • #7
              Fixed the valve today. My system is apparently 1.5" where most now days are 0.75-1.0". I found an updated version of my valve and basically just took the top off and replaced the guts, so I never had to dig anything out. The diaphragm was damaged, as suspected. Took less than 30 minutes.

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