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Best way to tell if wall is load bearing?
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If the joist run parallel to the wall, as they most likely do, and in the attic there are no supporting elements that die on the wall it is not load bearing. For the opening you are wanting to add you could just add support above, cut the opening, and call it a day. Although from you diagram I am not sure, visually, what you are intending to accomplish. If it we me I would be more concerned with getting rid of the ugly wall in the foreground.1965 Ford Falcon Pro-Touring Project
TCI F/R Suspension, 3V-4.6 & TR3560, LT III Wheels
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Originally posted by lowfast View PostIf the joist run parallel to the wall, as they most likely do, and in the attic there are no supporting elements that die on the wall it is not load bearing. For the opening you are wanting to add you could just add support above, cut the opening, and call it a day. Although from you diagram I am not sure, visually, what you are intending to accomplish. If it we me I would be more concerned with getting rid of the ugly wall in the foreground.
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I spent about $9k on my kitchen remodel doing all the work myself, not including appliances. It was a gut down to the rock and start over affair. I would say the $2-4K would be better spent on the Master Bath. Just depends on what you had planned to do to the kitchen, $4k usually does not go far when you get into new cabinets, counters, etc.1965 Ford Falcon Pro-Touring Project
TCI F/R Suspension, 3V-4.6 & TR3560, LT III Wheels
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Originally posted by lowfast View PostI spent about $9k on my kitchen remodel doing all the work myself, not including appliances. It was a gut down to the rock and start over affair. I would say the $2-4K would be better spent on the Master Bath. Just depends on what you had planned to do to the kitchen, $4k usually does not go far when you get into new cabinets, counters, etc.
Most expensive bath part will be moving toilet to shower location which i'm told will be about 2k to jackhammer and expand line.
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