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Bridge building advice wanted

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  • Bridge building advice wanted

    Our lot has a creek that runs through the middle of it right behind where my house and garage sit. It is about 7-10' deep 12-18 feet wide. Pretty significant. The only place I can build an additional shop is behind the creek due to topography reasons. I am wanting to build a bridge across said creek to build a large shop on the back of the property but know nothing about I beam weight, height, and strength.

    The bridge will be used mainly for a four wheeler transporting either our boat, camper, or trailers back to the shop for storage. I would like it to be able to hold the weight of a vehicle also for whenever the next project car comes along! I would like it to be flush and not bumpy like a cattle guard so i can drive my lawn mower back and forth across it with no problems. I have a plan on how to flush the top of it with the creek and idea for dirt work. NO IDEA on what I beams to use or if there is something possibly better even.


    Input thoughts and ideas wanted por favor. Will put pictures of said creek online tonight!

  • #2
    you ready to spend alot of money. is there constant water in the creek.

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    • #3
      how much water runs thru it on rain days might determin how much wider or higher you will need to go or how much work will be needed. alot of things you will need might require you to get a crain which is not cheap.

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      • #4
        I was told in the last thirsty years it has only breached once, since we have lived here a year and a half maybe only has it even had 2' of running water twice.

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        • #5
          Build a bridge, hell build a hundred.... But don't suck a dick!!!

          On a serious note do you golf? I have seen some good ones that had old rails (train type) underneath that were pretty sturdy.

          If not get a big culvert pipe and fill it in with dirt with cement on top for weight.

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          • #6
            My grandfather built one at his old farm with two telephone poles, some concrete and boardss going between the poles. Took a few days and the thing lasted over 10 years til the farm was sold. I'm sure its still up just fine. Cars, tractors everything rode over that thing.

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            • #7
              Figure on using steel and get it engineered. With vehicles on it and water under it, don't try to cheap out.

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              • #8
                better be away from all city limits so you dont have to get permits.

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                • #9
                  Yea way out of city limits, never understood those folks!

                  area of bridge

                  creek

                  current bridge



                  it is grown up a lot now over the summer, but that is it. The bridge there now can hold a fourwheeler but that is all. It is actually about 3-5' longer than the new one i want to build. they put it on one of the widest spots ???

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Couver View Post
                    If not get a big culvert pipe and fill it in with dirt with cement on top for weight.
                    That's your cheapest and easiest.

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                    • #11
                      Seeing the pics I would do the culvert pipe with cement on top and on the upstream sides of the fill in. A bit of a do it yourself but way cheaper.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by dcs13 View Post
                        That's your cheapest and easiest.

                        box culverts. even small dia. pipes like 24" are like $800 for 8' long section. maybe you could find some jobs taken out some old box culverts. look at hansen pipe and you can see what sizes they have but you will need 4-6 culverts, plus renting equipment to move them. work the ground they will be sitting on cause you dont what the ground to wash away from under them. better better to do cast in place culverts if you went this route.

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                        • #13
                          Be aware that in Texas, you are responsible for changes you cause in water drainage, and for the damage that can occur if you slow down the flow (dam it up). If you construct something that breaks loose in high water, goes down stream and damages property, you can be held responsible. Also, the county you're in will want to know, and may require a permit.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by lincolnboy View Post
                            box culverts. even small dia. pipes like 24" are like $800 for 8' long section. maybe you could find some jobs taken out some old box culverts. look at hansen pipe and you can see what sizes they have but you will need 4-6 culverts, plus renting equipment to move them. work the ground they will be sitting on cause you dont what the ground to wash away from under them. better better to do cast in place culverts if you went this route.
                            See culverts seemed way more $$ than i wanted to spend. To me two 300$ ibeams and some wood on top and finished versus culverts at 700-1000$ and the rock and cement on top.

                            I was thinking two ibeams two fourwheelers and some come alongs to set the ibeams across....

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                            • #15
                              but what are you gonna set the i beams on. you will need to place some drill shaft and a abtment over thr drill shaft and then lay the i beam on top of the abtment( concrete cap)

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