Nope not the capacitor. When I came home the breaker had tripped and nothing on the outside unit worked. I went out checked the cap and the wiring. Flipped the breaker and then the fan worked but the compressor isn't kicking on. It's also not tripping the breaker now either, it'll run but it's blowing just air, not cool air. I replaced the cap a couple years ago when it blew.
It's got a dual cap and I just had it tested and it's within spec. It's a 3.5-35uF cap and it tested at 34uF. I checked the 3 poles at the compressor to ground and none of them are grounded. So it's not a dead short at the compressor.
Dammit I just checked the poles at the compressor and I have an open from the run pole to both common and start poles, so looks like another compressor is in my future.
Compressor hot to the touch? Internal overload opens up the common if it gets too hot, usually from trying to start and not starting. If it is cool to the touch its probably toast, but I'd give it plenty of time to cool down. If the overload was causing your open you need to be sure to put an amprobe on the start lead and check starting current, it will spike initially but should never go over the compressor LRA which you will find on the unit name plate.
I didn't touch it yesterday when I got home to check if it was hot. It sat overnight before I did the checks on the cap and comp today, so it had plenty of time to cool off.
I didn't touch it yesterday when I got home to check if it was hot. It sat overnight before I did the checks on the cap and comp today, so it had plenty of time to cool off.
Now I did just turn on the thermostat and went out to check the contactor. Is the 24V supposed to be there all the time, or just once to get contactor to power up? The contactor energizes and sends the 120 per side on through, but there is no 24V on the two side poles.
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