Having my A/C Replaced Today....

[Doug Hatton]

He mentioned that the builder put a 3.5 ton furnace in and when we replace that we should either add a return or upsize the one we have for the reasons you mention. Nice catch. We didn't touch the furnace or the return this go round.

[turboskull1]

Also looks like he needs to put a shut off switch in the emergency pan of some sort, plus it needs a riser on that "T" in the main drain, you wouldn't think the main pan overflow and main drain would ever get stopped up at the same time, but I've seen it enough to know that your current set up will over flow all over your ceiling when it does. Not knocking the job, just pointing a few things out that might save you down the road, nothing sucks worse than coming home from work and finding half your living room ceiling in the floor.....

[fordracing19]

Also looks like he needs to put a shut off switch in the emergency pan of some sort, plus it needs a riser on that "T" in the main drain, you wouldn't think the main pan overflow and main drain would ever get stopped up at the same time, but I've seen it enough to know that your current set up will over flow all over your ceiling when it does. Not knocking the job, just pointing a few things out that might save you down the road, nothing sucks worse than coming home from work and finding half your living room ceiling in the floor.....

Shouldn't the condensate line have a running trap?

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[turboskull1]

Not with a gas furnace, there's positive pressure on the evaporator and drain pan. Airhandlers or electric furnaces on the other hand have the evaporator placed before the blower, on the negative side of your airflow. You must trap the primary and secondary outputs on the main pan of an airhandler or electric furnace or it will not drain properly, most manufacturers recommend at least a 4" trap.

[Doug Hatton]

I thought the same thing about there needing to be more riser on that T. I didn't take any before pics, so no sure what he was working with from the previous install. I've never thought about putting a shutoff switch in the pan. That's a good idea. Would that kill power if ANY water gets in the pan or only if it gets to a certain level? Is the pan the second line of defense or the first? IOW, does it only catch overflow from the unit?

Also looks like he needs to put a shut off switch in the emergency pan of some sort, plus it needs a riser on that "T" in the main drain, you wouldn't think the main pan overflow and main drain would ever get stopped up at the same time, but I've seen it enough to know that your current set up will over flow all over your ceiling when it does. Not knocking the job, just pointing a few things out that might save you down the road, nothing sucks worse than coming home from work and finding half your living room ceiling in the floor.....

[turboskull1]

[QUOTE=Doug Hatton;1058155]I thought the same thing about there needing to be more riser on that T. I didn't take any before pics, so no sure what he was working with from the previous install. I've never thought about putting a shutoff switch in the pan. That's a good idea. Would that kill power if ANY water gets in the pan or only if it gets to a certain level? Is the pan the second line of defense or the first? IOW, does it only catch overflow from the unit?[/

The pan is actually your first line of defense, the pan switch is just a nice extra. If you put a wet switch in the pan it only takes a minimal amount of moisture to make it trip, a float switch usually requires 3/4-1" of water in the pan before it shuts the equipment off. Either style of switch is ok, I'm really surprised he didn't install one since its a code requirement in most cities to pass mechanical inspection.

[junk racing]

I would have mastic sealed the start collars on the plenum aswell....defiantly do a float switch