250 in parts and takes less than a hour to change. Do it yourself. Remove the meter and youll be fine. Its easy prolly done a 100 or more.
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Originally posted by dutchboy View Post250 in parts and takes less than a hour to change. Do it yourself. Remove the meter and youll be fine. Its easy prolly done a 100 or more.
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Originally posted by dutchboy View Post250 in parts and takes less than a hour to change. Do it yourself. Remove the meter and youll be fine. Its easy prolly done a 100 or more.
You'll need to do it right, which likely means a ground rod, bare 6awg wire to connect it...some 2/0 wire, 200 amp main breaker 40-42 ckt panel with breakers, cold water clamp and 6awg wire to connect to cold water at water heater, some romex connectors or 2" PVC connectors to bring cables through, possibly some additional wire and wire nuts to extend wires that isn't long enough, etc...realistically, you'll probably spend 300-400 and the better part of 8-hrs. A good residential service guy can knock it out in about 4-6 hrs. If you decide to go this route, I'll go into more detail and give you a better list. It's not extremely difficult, but it's definitely going to take you more than an hour.
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Originally posted by STANGGT40 View PostI don't know anyone that could do this in an hour! Lol
You'll need to do it right, which likely means a ground rod, bare 6awg wire to connect it...some 2/0 wire, 200 amp main breaker 40-42 ckt panel with breakers, cold water clamp and 6awg wire to connect to cold water at water heater, some romex connectors or 2" PVC connectors to bring cables through, possibly some additional wire and wire nuts to extend wires that isn't long enough, etc...realistically, you'll probably spend 300-400 and the better part of 8-hrs. A good residential service guy can knock it out in about 4-6 hrs. If you decide to go this route, I'll go into more detail and give you a better list. It's not extremely difficult, but it's definitely going to take you more than an hour.
To the OP, you have to get a licensed installer so no diy on this. My wife recently went through this on a house she sold and was lucky I had a bud who was willing to sign off on the unlicensed work done.
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Originally posted by dblack1 View PostWhat is a cold water clamp? Never run into one, but I've only done gas installs on older homes? Can you wire nut to extend wires inside a box and it still meet code? I changed one with 22 circuits and it took me almost all day.
To the OP, you have to get a licensed installer so no diy on this. My wife recently went through this on a house she sold and was lucky I had a bud who was willing to sign off on the unlicensed work done.
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I got a licensed guy coming out to help me this weekend. Hes going to do the permit and all and quoted me a great price. To help out, I am trying to figure out all the code stuff figured out for him...mainly what will they enforce what they wont.
Regarding that cold water clamp (which I dont think I have), my water heater is clear on the other side of the house. The closest water line is the laundry room right next to the garage. Can I clamp onto that? Is another option a grounding bar just outside of the meter? (I will verify with the city, just looking for opinions of those that have more experience with this crap!)
FWIW, I spoke to Carrollton's Inspection dept the other day and the guy that answered made it sound like they are fairly reasonable with the code if you're just making the change to get rid of the known problematic panels. In his words "we want to encourage people to update their boxes as they are already creating a safer condition...so we don't throw the book at you and require everything like arc fault and ground fault breakers in certain areas as the house wasn't wired with that in mind." The grounding via cold water clamp didnt come up, so ill call again and ask.
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Originally posted by TRAXX View Postoh and looks like Home Depot is going to be the best place to get this stuff. Anyone know a good way to get a % off coupon?
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Originally posted by TRAXX View PostI got a licensed guy coming out to help me this weekend. Hes going to do the permit and all and quoted me a great price. To help out, I am trying to figure out all the code stuff figured out for him...mainly what will they enforce what they wont.
Regarding that cold water clamp (which I dont think I have), my water heater is clear on the other side of the house. The closest water line is the laundry room right next to the garage. Can I clamp onto that? Is another option a grounding bar just outside of the meter? (I will verify with the city, just looking for opinions of those that have more experience with this crap!)
FWIW, I spoke to Carrollton's Inspection dept the other day and the guy that answered made it sound like they are fairly reasonable with the code if you're just making the change to get rid of the known problematic panels. In his words "we want to encourage people to update their boxes as they are already creating a safer condition...so we don't throw the book at you and require everything like arc fault and ground fault breakers in certain areas as the house wasn't wired with that in mind." The grounding via cold water clamp didnt come up, so ill call again and ask.
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I had to replace a federal pacific Monday. It burned up the bus bar due to no dead front holding the breakers on.
The inspector red tagged me and made me run two ground rods 20 feet apart since they had the plumbing changed over to PVC and install a ground bridge.
Fort Worth inspectors can really blow sometimes.
And lol at changing a panel in 1 hour. I'm a journeymen electrician and there's no way it can be done that fast.
The home owner panels for federal pacific are not that bad. It's really more on the commercial end older panels that would never trip.
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Originally posted by TRAXX View Posthow hard is it to get the ground rods 10 ft deep in the north dallas clay soils?
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