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  • #16
    After handling a couple Stihls, Id recommend the small promodel that can be used with one hand. A few neighbors have bought them since another neighbor let them borrow the small one. The original guy with the small one hand version is a professional arborist and has Stihl chainsaws in almost all the sizes and he prefers to use the small one. Not sure of the model number but it rocks.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by bcoop View Post
      Is it safe to assume yours sees pretty heavy use? Still reliable? For our purposes it will only be used twice a month, but for a solid 10 hours a day for 2-3 days on each trip. Would you have any concerns about this over the pro model?
      I bought a Stihl a few years ago and love it. I'll have to look at the model I have, but a 16" bar is standard on it. It's one of their best sellers. I'd consider it a landscaper/high end homeowner/small farm type saw. It's not meant to be run every day, but it can lay waste to some trees. I ordered mine with an 18" bar because I have an old Homelite with a 14" bar. I wanted a gap between them. I use the Stihl to fall trees. I'll do most of the prune out work with the 14" saw just because it's smaller and easier to trim with. Then I use the Stihl to cut into logs. It's easy to start and runs like a champ.

      Oh, and I'd be sure to get an electric chain sharpener if you don't have one already.

      I think my saw is an MS-250. I did get the 18" bar though. Apparently they now make it in the easy start too whatever that is.

      Last edited by juiceweezl; 08-29-2012, 06:16 AM.

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      • #18
        Stihl all the way. Might want to consider a bow bar, saves a lot of bending cutting stuff on the ground.

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        • #19
          ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I like that ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


          OP, what are the older models you have, brand and model numbers, what parts are needed for them?

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          • #20
            [QUOTE=bcoop;795101]So we have an old Echo, and and old Stihl, that we can't get parts for. When I say old, they are at least 15 years old, but probably 20 or more.

            Try Ebay for the parts. I get ALOT of my Stihl parts from there. If weight of the saw is going to play in then I would look into the Pro Models (lighter but same power) from Stihl. Pretty much the $$$ is going to be the same across the board no matter where you go. John Deere Dealers usually have a huge selection of Stihl saws. I own a MS390, MS290, 029 Super and a 028. They are all fairly heavy saws and will wear you down if you run them ALL day but I can annihilate some trees! The biggest bar I run is a 25in on the 390 and 18in on everything else. I run a 3/8 chain on all them too.

            I look at cutting wood like this. When I go in I want to get after it and get out and not be dicking around trying to start or keep my saw running the whole time. Stihl's are the bomb in my opinion.

            I run the Stihl HP Ultra 50.1 mix and 93 octane in all my saws and have never had any problems. Stihl bar oil also.
            Last edited by Bonestk87; 09-04-2012, 08:10 PM.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by shumpertdavid View Post

              OP, what are the older models you have, brand and model numbers, what parts are needed for them?


              I'll have to see what I can find on them. The non running ones are all at the farm.
              Originally posted by BradM
              But, just like condoms and women's rights, I don't believe in them.
              Originally posted by Leah
              In other news: Brent's meat melts in your mouth.

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              • #22
                Bonestk87, I've never looked into changing the chains up (pitch or whatever would be the difference). I have wondered what the different chains are all about. I'm like you when I have a tree down or need to do clean up I want to it as quick and efficient as possible. What chain combo gives the best cutting/longevity. I watch ax men or shows like it and they're cutting through huge as trees like butter, I know the saws are retarded expensive and built for the cut, but I'd think I could improve the cutting ability of my Husqvarna.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by shumpertdavid View Post
                  Bonestk87, I've never looked into changing the chains up (pitch or whatever would be the difference). I have wondered what the different chains are all about. I'm like you when I have a tree down or need to do clean up I want to it as quick and efficient as possible. What chain combo gives the best cutting/longevity. I watch ax men or shows like it and they're cutting through huge as trees like butter, I know the saws are retarded expensive and built for the cut, but I'd think I could improve the cutting ability of my Husqvarna.
                  I run a hard nose Duromatic bars. They last longer if you do happen to get into the dirt on occasion. I run OILOMATIC® STIHL RAPID™ Super 3 (RS3) chains on all my saws. Pretty aggressive cut with mild kick back. I like the 3/8 standard pitch @.050 gauge because it has a larger cut and can be found easily at most shops. I just recently jumped over to a OILOMATIC® STIHL RAPID™ Super L Klassic (RSLK) for the Ms390 which is a Chisel chain and WILL kick back on you But it will mow through some wood. Several variations of this chain are out there in half skip and full skip options (which space the cutter teeth apart). These chisel chains are not for first time users at all. You better know your way around a saw because they WILL KICK BACK. I'm going to use this on just the large cutting only. It it said there is a fine art on sharpening the chisel chain because the shops have no way to sharpen them. It must be done by hand and with a flat file. They use the Chisel full skip chains on Harvesters.

                  It really depends on what size of saw you have on which size chain you can run.

                  I hope I answered it for ya.



                  Some Stihl info on the chains:



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                  • #24
                    Thanks to all who contributed. Ended up going with the Stihl MS 290 Farm Boss. After much thought and consideration, I upgraded it to the 20" bar ($10 more). I don't know the specifics on his current Husqy, but it's either a 14 or 16" bar. I figured for $10 more, it would be worth it to go with the 20", as that should be enough to handle anything we will ever throw at it. I didn't see much point of having a 16" and an 18". Figured I might as well make it a 16" and 20", and cover a wider range.

                    My siblings and I are giving this to my Dad for his 72nd bday present later this week. The weight concerns me, as it's a heavy pig in comparison to the Husqy, but I guess that's why he had two sons. lol.

                    Originally posted by BradM
                    But, just like condoms and women's rights, I don't believe in them.
                    Originally posted by Leah
                    In other news: Brent's meat melts in your mouth.

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                    • #25
                      cool...it's a damn good chainsaw.

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                      • #26
                        very nice indeed

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                        • #27
                          You won't be disappointed and smart move on the bar. I had a 14" saw already, and when I bought my Stihl, I moved from the 16" standard bar to an 18" for a wider range. That'll be a damn good saw. Makes me want to go fire mine up can fall a few trees.

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