new home construction

[kenny c]

Gas line to back porch for a grill, if you have gas available.
I would have two runs of cat5 to bedrooms, office, living room etc.
I would have two runs of RG6 to living room rather than one
Surround sound speaker wiring, in living room, and may also consider kitchen patio etc.
Have a "homerun panel" installed for all the above connections to an inside closet with electrical outlets.
If you are going to wall mount a TV in any room have the electrical and media connections placed accordingly and have additional bracing in that area.
220v outlet in the garage if you use welders, air compressors etc. Also extra outlets in the garage is nice.
Have a deeper/wider garage built.
May consider 42" cabinets if you are taller.
Make sure rooms that don't have ceiling fans are prewired for them (two switches)

42" cabinets - yes
surround sound in living and on porch - yes
wall mount TV in living and on porch - yes

First, who's the builder? Is this the one in Liberty Hill? To "foam" the entire house instead of fiberglass is going to double the cost of the insulation package. In the Austin area climate, it wouldn't be my primary concern. Good vinyl windows, radiant barrier decking and 18" in the attic will be fine. Tyvek moisture barrier is fine if it's installed correctly (especially around windows!). PM me if you have some more questions.

Cost increases of materials should NOT be your problem. Upgrades will cause the costs' to go up, but you can control that. There may be things you want done "spur of the moment" that will cost you a little more, and that's common during construction.

Yes - Liberty Hill

We tried to think of every upgrade possible, and get it included. For example - larger driveway, extra outlets, elec box ran to the end of the property (1.2 acre), the best cabinets he offers, flooring options, extra can lights, etc. I have budgeted for about $2500 in last minute add-ons, but who knows...

[garycrist]

Do not foam the roof! Foam in the walls will stop the penetration of air cold or hot.
In the summer the humidity that is blocked by the foam will increase the life of the air conditioning coils by several years! During the change of seasons your house will not require heating or air conditioning.

Yes foam in the wall is more expensive. I amortized the cost out over the 30 year life of the loan and the end figure was $7.00 per month. We save sometimes hundreds of dollars per month compared to the neighbor's bills during extremes in the weather.

The comfort level of our home is far superior and more comfortable and that quality is very hard to quantify.

[Rick the Home Inspector]

Make sure you have a Realtor representing you. A Realtor never cost you a dime if your the "buyer" of a home.

New Construction?

Drainage Drainage Drainage

Upgrade the roof decking to a Radiant Barrier type material / Some turbines for ventilation if allowed.

Granite countertops. Helps in the future for resale.
Extra water spigots at the exterior walls.
Gas Line for Grill at Patio
Sprinkler System
Upgrade carpet
Ask the builder for window blinds. (Big expense after move-in if you don't)
Acme Brick
Consider adding a floor safe
30 year shingles.

These are just a few you can have a Realtor ask for from the builder. You might be surprised at how far they will go to make that sale of a home right now.

[centexchick]

Go everyday to check on the progress. I would go twice a day.

Getting a representitive is a good idea, someone who knows what to look for...

electric outlets to the island. water to island if you have one.

in the bathrooms, get extra water protection between cement board and tile...floors and walls. There are all types of materials out there! Make sure they do it right. Upgrade every thing in the bath...You will appreciate it later.

[Gear_Jammer]

I agree with a lot that has been said above, including going by at least a couple of times a week to check on progress and any potential screw ups. I just got done with an 8 month remodel project at my house and I went by every other day.

[Lone Sailor]

Go to your new home site every single day, or as much as you possibly can. You will see all the progress and it will be easier to find any "mistakes" or "shortcuts" that you don't want to see happen before it's too late, or stop something that could make an impact on your house, property, or family in years to come.

Also, don't forget about outside, like extra weatherproof outlets as well as plenty of water spigots with vacuum breakers on all exterior walls. Think about extra outlets in the garage and 2 or 3 on the ceiling if you are a someone who uses the garage a lot to work on cars, etc. Those hanging drop lights are great, but you have to have an outlet to plug them in, obviously. Another garage issue is always lighting, don't cheap out on the lights in the garage if you use it much, get some decent fluorescent lights in there the first time and be done with it.

Other randoms that come to mind....

Good irrigation system
Skylights
Attic foil, etc (or attic fan)
Under cabinet lighting for the upper cabinets
220 outlet in garage for welder
Garage door keypad (being locked out will never happen again)
If it's 2 or more stories get multiple A/C/heating units for each
Make sure the clothes dryer vents to where you want it, not just some random spot where the builder decides it should be.
Crown molding in every room
Exterior lighting, walkways, driveway, porch('s), flag pole, front bushes, etc
Flag pole
Dual sinks in at least the m-bath
Built-in bench in m-shower
Security cameras and sensors
Electrical "closet" for a central wiring and electronics and breaker room(with a/c vents ducted in).


Don't settle for builder grade on anything, stick to what you want, as long as it's within your budget.

[8mpg]

I would have a panel for all the plumbing in one area. All the plumbing legs into the house have a ball valve shut off in case of a leak. You dont want to have to shut the whole house water off if a shower is leaking...

Make sure they use ball valves and not those crappy rubber stopper gate valves

Make sure all your doors are square after install

Dont let the builder skimp out on crown molding, etc... They might try and put in 3" when you think 5" is included in the price

Make sure your bathroom showers/tubs are done properly. No regular sheetrock, needs a good vapor barrier, etc... Id look into other forms of shower pans other than a simple plastic liner and mud bed. Either a liquid membrane or Kerdi. You dont want mold later on

All the extra plywood in the attic for flooring where you need to get around

Go around the perimeter of the house with magnets and you will find buckets of nails/screws

Soaker hose type system for watering the foundation

Upgraded A/C... higher seer and make sure its a good quality one like Carrier

[silverhatch]

Handicap door in the garage it is wider and will make moving in easier.

[8mpg]

oh.. staircase to the attic...not that janky cheap ladder

[Vertnut]

oh.. staircase to the attic...not that janky cheap ladder

I use an aluminum unit. Staircases take up a lot of space.

[kenny c]

I appreciate all of the advise so far... keep it coming.

Make sure you have a Realtor representing you. A Realtor never cost you a dime if your the "buyer" of a home.

New Construction?

Drainage Drainage Drainage

Upgrade the roof decking to a Radiant Barrier type material / Some turbines for ventilation if allowed.

Granite countertops. Helps in the future for resale.
Extra water spigots at the exterior walls.
Gas Line for Grill at Patio
Sprinkler System
Upgrade carpet
Ask the builder for window blinds. (Big expense after move-in if you don't)
Acme Brick
Consider adding a floor safe
30 year shingles.

These are just a few you can have a Realtor ask for from the builder. You might be surprised at how far they will go to make that sale of a home right now.

No realtor... don't know why really. However we were able to negotiate that fee out of the bid.
New construction - yes - starting from a lot
wall spigots - one on each side currently
granite - check
upgrade carpet & pad - check
stone and stone/stucco combo - no brick

I need to check on radiant barrier and 30 yr shingles.

I work for a window covering manufacturer and own my own installation company, so I'm good there.

Go everyday to check on the progress. I would go twice a day.

Getting a representitive is a good idea, someone who knows what to look for...

electric outlets to the island. water to island if you have one.

in the bathrooms, get extra water protection between cement board and tile...floors and walls. There are all types of materials out there! Make sure they do it right. Upgrade every thing in the bath...You will appreciate it later.

Marble slab in baths, upgraded walk-in shower to a larger space with bench

I would have a panel for all the plumbing in one area. All the plumbing legs into the house have a ball valve shut off in case of a leak. You dont want to have to shut the whole house water off if a shower is leaking...

Make sure they use ball valves and not those crappy rubber stopper gate valves

Make sure all your doors are square after install

Dont let the builder skimp out on crown molding, etc... They might try and put in 3" when you think 5" is included in the price

Make sure your bathroom showers/tubs are done properly. No regular sheetrock, needs a good vapor barrier, etc... Id look into other forms of shower pans other than a simple plastic liner and mud bed. Either a liquid membrane or Kerdi. You dont want mold later on

All the extra plywood in the attic for flooring where you need to get around

Go around the perimeter of the house with magnets and you will find buckets of nails/screws

Soaker hose type system for watering the foundation

Upgraded A/C... higher seer and make sure its a good quality one like Carrier

good ideas

oh.. staircase to the attic...not that janky cheap ladder

we are getting one like this..

http://www.rainbowatticstair.com/attic-stairs-products/prestige-folding-attic-stairs.cfm

[dewayne6243]

Foam instead of fiberglass in the exterior walls.
Shim all the 2x4's during framing.
EXTRA OUTLETS EVERYWHERE, especially for Christmas lights.
50or60A per leg 220 on the back porch.
Above the cabinet outlets for indirect lighting.

Bribe the hell out of all the subs to get extra things done!!
Bribe the workers to get extra things done the subs will not do.
Buy a few dinners for the workers as it cuts down on their peeing in the corners of the house.

Extra external hose bibs.

We built to identical homes one with foam and the other with cellulose. There electricity bills are always within $20-$30 of each other. Foam cost $30K more and is proven a waste of money. Does block out a tiny bit more sound.

[reddsredcoupe]

For sure try to figure the blinds in, they get them cheaper. My house is all custom size windows and was very expensive. Out side lighting. Most important I didnt think of it but out of my 3 car garage I have 1 electric wall socket and 2 in the ceiling for openers.

[kenny c]

For sure try to figure the blinds in, they get them cheaper. My house is all custom size windows and was very expensive.

Did you see post #26?

Also... "custom size" windows do not cost more than "standard size" windows to cover with blinds, shutters, etc. The sqft determines the price, and if anyone tells you different then they are incorrect. Specialty shapes cost more, but rectangular windows are all based on size... not custom size vs standard size.

[fordracing19]

Alot of good info. I did switched eve plugs for Christmas lights with the switch in the entry closet. I also have my decorative up lights and flood lights switches in the closet. I do not like a lot of switches by the front door.
I also put a hot water hose bib by the driveway.