04 Tahoe Steering Wheel Control Adapter Troubles

[TeeShock]

I feel like I followed the instructions step by step for a 2004 Tahoe (Canadian) with a Pioneer AVH-X2600BT and a PAC SWI-RC steering wheel interface. When programming on step (Section 8, Step 2) the LED doesn't turn on, it starts flashing when pushing the program button. The SWI module responds to pushing steering wheel control button by stopping the LED from flashing, and continues with I release the steering wheel control button but it only lets me program 2 buttons then the flashing stops. There isnt anything about a flashing LED in the instructions. I may be wrong but the program version number is supposed to be #1? that's what the instructions lead me to believe in Section 7. Also, when i rattle the SWI module the led intermittently illuminates. Any ideas on why the module flashing in program mode? It's not plugged into head unit yet, set to channel 7, and program verified as #1 with single flash on powerup. Thanks in advance. Instructions as follows:



2004 Chevrolet Tahoe


1. Quick description before we start wiring the SWI-RC.

The SWI-RC's wire color we are going to use is Green. This is the Green wire on the SWI-RC, not the vehicle!
The other wires on the SWI-RC, white, yellow, orange and blue wires are not used for your Chevrolet Tahoe. (I cut and capped these)

This leaves you with a Red, Black and two loop wires. These wires will be discussed down below.

2. Picture of the Chevrolet Tahoe plug.
The vehicle's factory harness connector is viewed from the pin side not wire side.

Fig. 1
Additional Pics

3. Connecting the SWI-RC's steering wheel control input wire to vehicle plug.
Read the note in the chart below.
Connect the SWI-RC's Green wire to Pin B31 (Lt. Green) of the above connector.

Note #348
Connect the INTERFACE's Green wire to Pin B31 (Lt. Green) of the vehicle connector.Do not cut this wire, tap into the wire. The vehicle connector is located at the base of steering column.

4. Connecting power and ground wires.

Black wire: Connect the SWI-RC's black wire to chassis ground. This is usually a black wire on the aftermarket wire kit.

Red wire: Connect the SWI-RC's red wire to a switched +12volt wire. This is usually a red wire on the aftermarket wire kit.

5. Instructions for cutting or not cutting loop wires.

Step A: The purple loop wire does not need to be cut. (unless stated different previously)

Step B: Cut the Brown loop wire in half and insulate both ends.

6. Setting the Radio Select Rotary Switch

The rotary switch needs to be set to position #7
Please note that it is very important to set the radio select switch before turning on the ignition to begin programming!

7. Programming the SWI-RC with a version number.

The SWI-RC has to be programmed for version # 1.

1. Press and hold the Program Button on the SWI-RC while turning on the vehicle to the accessory position. The LED will turn on.

2. Release the Program Button and the LED will turn off.

3. Press the Program Button 1 times. Each time you press and release the Program Button, the LED will turn on and off. Once you press the Program Button 1 times, wait or 3 seconds. The LED will flash 1 times indicating it is programmed for version 1. If it flashes the wrong version number, you will have to start all over at step 1 above in this section. Turn the key off.

4. Once you have programmed the correct version number, you will not have to do these steps again. If you need to reprogram the steering wheel control, you can go directly to the next section.

8. Programming the SWI-RC to learn steering wheel control functions.

1. Turn the key to the accessory position (you do not need to hold the Program Button at this time). The LED will flash 1 times. This indicates it is programmed for version 1.

2. Press the Program Button until the LED turns on, then release the button (This will erase all previous learned steering wheel control functions). The SWI-RC is now ready to learn a command from the steering wheel.

3. The SWI-RC must be programmed in the specific order shown in the chart below. If a function is not needed, it may be skipped.

Pioneer
Programming order for
SWI-RC N/A
1 Volume Up
2 Volume Down
3 Mute
4 Preset +
5 Preset -
6 Source
7 Track Up
8 Track Down
9 Band
10 Phone Menu
11 Answer Call
12 End Call
13 Voice Activation

4. With the LED on, press your steering wheel button until the light goes out and hold for one second more.

5. Release and the LED should come back on. If it does not please double check all connections and verify for correct version programming.

6. Repeat step 4 and 5 to program additional steering wheel buttons in the order corresponding to the chart above for your SWI interface.

7. If you come across a command in the chart that your steering wheel does not have, or you do not want to program, press the Program Button on the side of the SWI interface.

8. The LED will flash once rapidly and then stay on confirming that you have successfully skipped that command and are ready for the next button.

9. When you are done programming all the buttons, wait for about 7 seconds. The LED will flash 3 times indicating it is done programming. The LED will then flash 1 times indicating the version number.

9. Testing the SWI-RC.

1. Connect the plug to back of radio's steering wheel input jack or harness.

2. With the vehicle on, press a steering wheel button to control the stereo. The SWI-RC should control the aftermarket stereo with the function you taught it. Test all other buttons.

3. If the interface does not control the radio as the steering wheel indicates, the buttons were either pressed in the wrong order or a step was not skipped properly. Return to category 7 and reprogram.

4. Make sure all unused wires are isolated separately.

5. After all commands are verified to work properly, secure the SWI interface so that tension will not pull either of the connectors loose or apart.

6. That's it! Enjoy!

[vert_95]

I haven't used the swi-rc before but I have used the swi-ps in my 04 Avalanche and it worked on the first try, have you thought about trying a different one?

[jluv]

Ya, PAC stuff is pretty iffy. Try a second module. I've had to replace my steering wheel model once or twice, and the newest one acts up sometimes, still. I've had to replace my TR7 multiple times. They just crap out, and maybe some right out of the box. If you know that you have the wiring correct, just replace the little module itself and see what happens.

[TeeShock]

I haven't used the swi-rc before but I have used the swi-ps in my 04 Avalanche and it worked on the first try, have you thought about trying a different one?

I dont know what the difference in the modules are. I guess ill order a new one and hope it works. The shitty part is an audio shop sold it to my cousin for $75 with his new head unit.

[EW]

Sometimes the vehicle is the problem. Metra ASWC-1 works well. The idatalink SW is also good. Some can be programmed by computer which simplifies the install/programming.

[TeeShock]

Alright I called the customer support and discussed my issues with the tech. He suggested I fix two things:
First was me using a wire tap on the factory steering wheel control wire since I was opposed to cutting the factory harness. Apparently the clamp down style wire taps do not work well with low voltage signals. (Fixed with cutting the harness and re securing with a butt splice on that wire only, all other connections were already spliced)

Second was the SWI module ground. To simplify the install I used the factory radio harness ground. The manual calls for an isolated chassis ground. (Fixed with running a separate, isolated ground)

After the wiring was fixed it worked fine. I am unsure which of the two resolutions was the true fix or it was a combination. Regardless, I learned a few things and hope anyone else reading this can benefit from it.

[TeeShock]

Sometimes the vehicle is the problem. Metra ASWC-1 works well. The idatalink SW is also good. Some can be programmed by computer which simplifies the install/programming.

So I recently bought a 2006 GM truck with bose and onstar. The stock speakers arent that great. I would also like to be able to bluetooth in. I have been really happy with my Pioneer AVH-X2600BT in my daily and would like to go with something similar for the truck. Would the parrot android radio be worth the wait? They smashed it at CES this year with the RNB6.

There is XM radio and Onstar that I dont need. Are there any negative side effects from removing onstar system?

Is there a way to adapt the stock head unit to accept bluetooth?

If I do replace the stock head unit, I want to retain all of the steering controls functionality and door chimes. I feel like the SWI-RC module was buggy in both vehicles I have installed in. EW, the Metra ASWC-1 might be worth a shot.

I am only going to run replacement speakers and a small amp/sub behind the rear seat (crew cab)

[TeeShock]

How about just adding a bluetooth module to an existing canbus truck with bose and xm?

[EW]

http://www.scosche.com/car-audio/bluetooth

Click on the GM and GM Class2 to see if they will work for your truck.

[EW]

So I recently bought a 2006 GM truck with bose and onstar. The stock speakers arent that great. I would also like to be able to bluetooth in. I have been really happy with my Pioneer AVH-X2600BT in my daily and would like to go with something similar for the truck. Would the parrot android radio be worth the wait? They smashed it at CES this year with the RNB6.
I have not looked at the Parrot deck. The stock speakers suck. Any decent $99pr speaker would be better.
There is XM radio and Onstar that I dont need. Are there any negative side effects from removing onstar system?
No negative effects.
Is there a way to adapt the stock head unit to accept bluetooth?
maybe. see scosche.
If I do replace the stock head unit, I want to retain all of the steering controls functionality and door chimes. I feel like the SWI-RC module was buggy in both vehicles I have installed in. EW, the Metra ASWC-1 might be worth a shot.
buy an all in one module that does everything you want like RP4GM11.
I am only going to run replacement speakers and a small amp/sub behind the rear seat (crew cab)

..

[TeeShock]

Alright this thread needs new life. I bought and 06 Silverado and installed an aftermarket pioneer double din out of the car I just sold.

The harness I used was the top tier PAC (I think GM-5). It installed fine but there is a intermittent whining that changes frequency with the engine RPM. The crazy part about it is when I slap the dashboard it goes away until i hit another bump

I grounded the harness and head unit to factory ground pin in factory harness. I have the 7 speaker bose systemw/ onstar and not sure if i have the amp or not but it sounded better on the non-amped adapter input. Some days it works fine and others it whines like crazy.

I've had bad luck with PAC products in the past and I am wondering if this sounds like a module issue or a wiring issue? If it was wired wrong how could it be intermittent?

[jluv]

I have used and still use several different PAC modules, and they have always been quirky. Sometimes they work fine. Sometimes they don't. Sorry if that's not much help, but the point being that it may not be anything else other than the typical PAC crap. Replace that part first before you spend time chasing down anything else.

[EW]

Are you using the RCA inputs from the deck to the PAC interface? If so, you may need two PAC SNI-1 noise filters and even then, you may not eliminate 100% of the engine noise. The non-amped input may be louder at low volume but if the amped input has less noise, it is the one to use even if you have to turn the deck volume way up. No problem. I prefer PAC over Metra but all the interfaces can have issues. Chevy trucks consistently have noise.

[TeeShock]

Are you using the RCA inputs from the deck to the PAC interface? If so, you may need two PAC SNI-1 noise filters and even then, you may not eliminate 100% of the engine noise. The non-amped input may be louder at low volume but if the amped input has less noise, it is the one to use even if you have to turn the deck volume way up. No problem. I prefer PAC over Metra but all the interfaces can have issues. Chevy trucks consistently have noise.

The rca inputs were not used in this installation. This noise is not continual which is tripping me out. Just tapping the dash trim will make the whining stop.

So if I were to connect the head units RCA output to the PAC RCA pigtails, it would I still leave the speaker harness attached from the head unit to the PAC module?

[TeeShock]

I have used and still use several different PAC modules, and they have always been quirky. Sometimes they work fine. Sometimes they don't. Sorry if that's not much help, but the point being that it may not be anything else other than the typical PAC crap. Replace that part first before you spend time chasing down anything else.

Im probably going to give up on the SWC and onstar and go with a different module. I do want to keep the factory amp and sub functional. Ive had PAC modules fall apart out of the box with parts rattling around inside the module which makes me think this could be the case of a short.

My other concern is the module is wedged back in there so hard that the harness plugs are stressing the internals of the PAC