04 Tahoe Steering Wheel Control Adapter Troubles

[jluv]

Im probably going to give up on the SWC and onstar and go with a different module. I do want to keep the factory amp and sub functional. Ive had PAC modules fall apart out of the box with parts rattling around inside the module which makes me think this could be the case of a short.

My other concern is the module is wedged back in there so hard that the harness plugs are stressing the internals of the PAC

On the SWC for my F250, sometimes it works perfectly, and sometimes the buttons do the wrong thing. Pressing volume up might change the station, and pressing volume down might make it louder. It comes and goes. It's gotten to where I can't trust the SWC enough to use those buttons, so I might as well ditch it. It just sucks to have expensive aftermarket stuff and lose features that you had from the factory.

[EW]

You need to solder the steering control connections and have a good ground like kick panel or body. The dash bracing may not work. 99% of the time the steering wheel controls work properly but once every couple of years, I have one that won't work correctly no matter brand or how it is installed. Interface companies say to replace the factory controls.

[TeeShock]

Swc need an iso ground. My factory harness ground works great for the swc for whatever reason. Zero programming required.

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[Chili]

I had a similar issue with mine not long after installing it. I finally pulled it back out and found one of the connectors had worked partially out of the module. I'm guessing it knocked a little loose when shoving all of it into the dash. Has worked perfectly since then.

[TeeShock]

I had a similar issue with mine not long after installing it. I finally pulled it back out and found one of the connectors had worked partially out of the module. I'm guessing it knocked a little loose when shoving all of it into the dash. Has worked perfectly since then.

I had a hard time getting the head unit all the way in (I had already moved the mounts further back on head unit to space it out for rear clearance). Should the module go to the right side of the dash or behind the cluster? Right now I stuffed it to the right side. I'm tempted to zip tie around the module to hold the connectors in place as well as isolate the ground from the factory harness ground.

[Chili]

I had a hard time getting the head unit all the way in (I had already moved the mounts further back on head unit to space it out for rear clearance). Should the module go to the right side of the dash or behind the cluster? Right now I stuffed it to the right side. I'm tempted to zip tie around the module to hold the connectors in place as well as isolate the ground from the factory harness ground.

Zip ties are probably not a bad idea. You cut out the support brace behind the stereo, right (vertical metal brace that goes up to the underside of the dash)? I know I had to, at least, with the double din unit I installed. I stuffed mine right back behind that, as I recall, a little towards the left side (closer to the cluster).

[TeeShock]

Zip ties are probably not a bad idea. You cut out the support brace behind the stereo, right (vertical metal brace that goes up to the underside of the dash)? I know I had to, at least, with the double din unit I installed. I stuffed mine right back behind that, as I recall, a little towards the left side (closer to the cluster).

I did not cut it since this same head unit went in an 04 with no cutting. Maybe mine is canadian or whatnot. Something i did and need to fix as well is group the parking brake signal input with the ground (this bypass was a failure).

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[Chili]

I did not cut it since this same head unit went in an 04 with no cutting. Maybe mine is canadian or whatnot. Something i did and need to fix as well is group the parking brake signal input with the ground (this bypass was a failure).

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Ours may be a little different (mine is an 05 Suburban from Mexico), so not sure.

[TeeShock]

Thanks to everyone for their input.

I removed the head and harness, sawed the support piece out, sliced my finger, isolated the ground, ziptied the connectors all the way in and covered the RCA leads off of the adapter it finally works. There is a little bit of fuzz even when the engine is shut off but it doesn't scale with the volume.
Whining is GONE.

Next step is going to be a big 3 upgrade, sub/amp, speakers, sound deadening, and possible a larger alternator for future accessories. I would really like to clean the fuzz sounds up before I replace all my speakers and add the subs. Has anyone seen the rear section of a cab bedlined for insulation? I was going to have my line-x extended over the bed rails to replace the plastic caps and thought it might be worth if to get the non visible section of the cab coated as well.

[EW]

Bedliner is not an effective sound deadener. Knock on the bed of a truck covered with bedliner. It will still ring like a gong. I use two layers of Stinger Roadkill Expert and then a Stinger Carpet Pad over that if someone wants to get serious.

[TeeShock]

Bedliner is not an effective sound deadener. Knock on the bed of a truck covered with bedliner. It will still ring like a gong. I use two layers of Stinger Roadkill Expert and then a Stinger Carpet Pad over that if someone wants to get serious.

I loved that product in my last car. Im not that serious about this truck right now but I am curious if there are any sub boxes that fit behind the crew cab seats that don't interfere with the factory jack mounting?

The stock bose sub sounds decent for the time being but I was leaning towards a shallow mount 12 in a wedge.

Are there any wiring manufacturers you can recommend for doing a big 3 upgrade?