I use tight bond 2 wood glue on all joints. I apply it liberally before I place any 2 pieces together and I get good squeeze out from every joint.
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Ok car audio nuts here is another one for you..
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Originally posted by inline 6 View PostI use tight bond 2 wood glue on all joints. I apply it liberally before I place any 2 pieces together and I get good squeeze out from every joint.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2Originally posted by LeahBest balls I've had in my mouth in a while.
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More progress today, I trimmed the top, sanded it down, filled all the holes with bondo, sanded them flush, rounded all the edges, sanded more, then I cut the holes for the woofers. I cut the first one and before I did the next I had to do a test fit. All is well and the box is coming together just as I had planned so far.
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I decided that my box was looking a little bland and since I am going to have it sprayed with bed liner (hopefully tomorrow) I wanted to add a logo to it. So I made a drawing of the W6 logo and had the guys in our sheet metal shop cut it out on the cnc router. They should look good glued to the box and sprayed over with LineX.
These are a little over 4.25" tall and a little over 12" wide.
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Originally posted by EW View Postinline 6 has access to WAY too many tools/machines.
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Well its done as far as I can take it. I played around with the placement of the emblems and on the front and back are the only places that they looked good. I filled and sanded a few tiny imperfections and it is ready for the bed liner. I am going to drop it off in the morning and they are usually pretty fast so I should have pics of it with the liner on by tomorrow evening. The best thing about this box build so far is that is has not cost me a dime. I just used materials I had on hand from previous projects where I had left over material.
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GREAT job! Mine were typically finction over form. Nevr rounded the corners or cleaned them up, always bare MDF, though they were typically out of sight.
On a side note, and to save a new thread, what are the good interconnects these days (RCA). My new head unit should be here next week. I need to get the nav/on star antenna ordered. I figure while I have it out, I might as well set up the pac converters for a pair of amps and have the RCA's accessible so I don't have to pull the head unit when I am ready to add some power
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2Originally posted by LeahBest balls I've had in my mouth in a while.
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I buy monster cable stuff personally. The kind I buy are shielded and seem to be of high quality without breaking the bank. I am sure there are several kinds that are good though. I am running 3 sets from the head unit currently and I have good signal on all 3. I can never detect any sort of interference or outside influence. I will add that I was buying monster cable 12g speaker wire and I quit doing that. It does not seem like it is pure oxygen free copper but more like aluminum wire. I found a vendor on eBay that I keep going back to because the wire is indeed 100% pure oxygen free copper, has a super high strand count, and also has a silicone jacket which makes it super flexible and heat resistant.
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Originally posted by inline 6 View PostI buy monster cable stuff personally. The kind I buy are shielded and seem to be of high quality without breaking the bank. I am sure there are several kinds that are good though. I am running 3 sets from the head unit currently and I have good signal on all 3. I can never detect any sort of interference or outside influence. I will add that I was buying monster cable 12g speaker wire and I quit doing that. It does not seem like it is pure oxygen free copper but more like aluminum wire. I found a vendor on eBay that I keep going back to because the wire is indeed 100% pure oxygen free copper, has a super high strand count, and also has a silicone jacket which makes it super flexible and heat resistant.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2Originally posted by LeahBest balls I've had in my mouth in a while.
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