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  • Capacitor question

    I've got a 1-farad rockford, just seeing if it's even worth putting in. I will be upgrading to 1/0 power wire (the 2 gauge was way too hot) and the truck already has a bigger alternator but this isn't for competitions or anything so just wondering if the extra 5 minutes will make a difference. Thanks.

  • #2
    5 minutes?

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    • #3
      from what I have seen capacitors cause more strain on the electrical system in the long run. I would upgrade the big three power wires ( if you haven't already) see if that helps any.
      (batt + to alt. post; chassis ground to engine block ground; batt - to chassis ground.)

      That helped with voltage drops in my old car and it had 0 gauge on those three power wires and 0 ga. to the back powering 1 2k watt hifonics amp and my 1200watt component amp, worked great!

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      • #4
        doing the big three would benefit you more than that cap, may also want to think of upgrading your battery to a kintek or XS power

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        • #5
          Good to know, and 06S197GT, your setup may be similar to mine, I'm also running a hifonics amp (BXI2610D @ 2 ohms) and seperate component amp. I have the power wire running all the way to the back and split in a fused dist. block near the amps, I figured this would be the best setup, also the wire is expensive as hell. Am I wrong and should I run two seperate power wires all the way from the battery or will this work? I'm thinking with this thicker wire I should be fine. Oh and I'm running a yellow top optima for a battery.
          Last edited by Texican; 01-10-2011, 08:19 AM.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Texican View Post
            Good to know, and 06S197GT, your setup may be similar to mine, I'm also running a hifonics amp (BXI2610D @ 2 ohms) and seperate component amp. I have the power wire running all the way to the back and split in a fused dist. block near the amps, I figured this would be the best setup, also the wire is expensive as hell. Am I wrong and should I run two seperate power wires all the way from the battery or will this work? I'm thinking with this thicker wire I should be fine. Oh and I'm running a yellow top optima for a battery.
            This is where I buy my wire, fuses, dist. blocks (highly recommend) way cheaper than your local shops and they sell high quality stuff.
            Knukonceptz

            My setup was the same, 0ga to fused distro block with x1 0 gauge input to x2 4ga. output.(make sure you have appropriate amp'd fuses)

            Also, make sure you use same gauge for your ground wires from the amps on to bare metal if possible.

            edit: the battery should be fine, I ran mine with a cheapo autozone yellow top with no issues
            Last edited by 06S197GT; 01-10-2011, 03:32 PM.

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            • #7
              Ok, thanks again for the advice, I'd just rather do it all right this time around and not have to mess with it anymore. I'm done with upgrading and changing things around all the time. BTW, what all are you running?

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              • #8
                Here's a vid of what i used to have, sorry for the crappy cell phone quality vid.

                that was my first attempt at making a box (3.2cu ft.) so yes it is crap, but it pounded nice lol


                Then (2002 Mustang V6) I had obviously 2 Alpine Type R 1222D subs powered by a Hifonics Bxi2006 wired to 2ohms (was 1200w brutus amp in the vid). For components I had Infinity Kappas all the way around powered by a crappy Hitron 1200w comp. amp. Alpine HU

                Now (2006 Mustang GT) I just have the same component speakers up front (Inifnity Kappas) powered off the stock head unit. I changed out the stock 8" subs in the doors for some JL Audio w1's powered by a JL 250w amp.

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                • #9
                  Wow, that's pretty much identical to mine. Inifnity Kappa components up front, rear are Kappa 5x7's powered by a DB Drive 4-chan. BXI2610D powering 2 10" Rockford T1's (not my first pick but I got a hell of a deal when they first came out, buy one get one free) Custom built ported box, I was actually surprised how crisp the subs sounded with the ported box. I love the way it sounds though, it's like a concert in your ear!

                  edit: and an Alpine head unit

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                  • #10
                    I'm running a JL 300/4 and 500/1 with an Optima red top, "big 3" wiring upgrade, and an aftermarket 200amp alt and I still get dimming. A lot of it has to do with factory wiring.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Skidmark View Post
                      I'm running a JL 300/4 and 500/1 with an Optima red top, "big 3" wiring upgrade, and an aftermarket 200amp alt and I still get dimming. A lot of it has to do with factory wiring.
                      I'm not too familiar with JL amps but if you are running A/B class amps then you would draw more current than a class D. Class D amps are generally more efficient. My hifonics amp was a class D monoblock and the comp amp was class A. So that may have something to do with your dimming along with of course the stock wiring.
                      Last edited by 06S197GT; 01-11-2011, 07:59 PM.

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                      • #12
                        I think it has a lot to do with the factory headlight harness. If I upgraded the wires I'm sure it would help, but meh, I'm done modding the truck.

                        I'm not sure which class they are off the top of my head.

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                        • #13
                          I run class D amps, big 3, 250 amp alternator, and Optima red top, and as soon as I start pounding on it, the whole system shuts down. I just bought a Kinetic HC2400, and it will be going in as soon as the mounting box and side post adapters get here. I'm hoping it solves all my problems.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by jluv View Post
                            I run class D amps, big 3, 250 amp alternator, and Optima red top, and as soon as I start pounding on it, the whole system shuts down. I just bought a Kinetic HC2400, and it will be going in as soon as the mounting box and side post adapters get here. I'm hoping it solves all my problems.
                            Hmm, now my problems don't sound so bad at all!

                            I just googled the Kinetic, 69 pounds! Is this an additional battery you're running, or is it going to take the place of your current battery?

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Skidmark View Post
                              Hmm, now my problems don't sound so bad at all!

                              I just googled the Kinetic, 69 pounds! Is this an additional battery you're running, or is it going to take the place of your current battery?
                              It's replacing my red top. I have gone through 2 red tops in the past 3 years. The one in there right now won't even take a charge anymore.

                              The Kinetic is huge. I am going to have to shoehorn it in.

                              If it isn't enough, I will add another one (or two, etc) if needed. I want to be able to crank my shit up without running out of juice. Who knows - I may even want to add more subs & amps later, but the electrical system has been my weak link so far.

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